Tacticool. There’s a big difference between prepping with equipment that is used in a “tactical” nature by military and law enforcement and trying to be “tacticool”.
I see a lot of preppers loading all kinds of heavy, expensive junk onto weapons and calling that prepping, when really it’s just being tacticool… so let’s take a couple of minutes and talk about “kitting out” gear such as AR-15’s, personal defense handguns and other items.
What exactly is tacticool and why should I avoid it?
Urban Dictionary‘s definition:
1.) A derisive term for cheap knockoff versions of real, high-end tactical firearm accessories such as red dot sights, holosights, flashlights, lasers and scopes. Such accessories are highly popular with Airsoft players, since they look cool, cost much less and don’t need to be reliable enough for them to actually stake their lives on. A few morons put them on real guns though, which usually results in the cheaply made devices being destroyed by recoil.
2.) A derisive term for the use of an excessive quantity of tactical firearm accessories whether they are real or not.
I personally would add things like excessive military-style clothing worn not for utility but rather to show off.
I’ve gotta be honest, if I show up at a public range and see somebody dressed up all tacticool, I don’t even bother getting out of my vehicle, I don’t want anything to do with that person and firearms, because he (and it’s ALWAYS a he) is the type of person who I don’t trust.
But what about if he’s in the military? I’ve got a good friend who’s a decorated marine (currently a recruiter) , been to the sandbox twice, I’ve seen him at our local range several times shooting… wearing blue jeans, a t-shirt and cowboy boots.
So what brought this to mind today?
I stopped by my favorite local gun shop to pick up an extra magazine for Spice’s S&W M&P .22 handgun and there was a guy in there tricked out all tacticool. Dressed in all black like an extra from a TV SWAT team, he was looking at a EOTech Chinese knock-off scope to put on top of his personal AR. He had brought the AR with him in a case. The AR appeared to me to be a DPMS Sportical from the look of it — it didn’t have a dust cover and it didn’t have a forward assist.
Look, I’ve got nothing against DPMS or budget-friendly AR’s, I’ve shot one of their Oracles and it was fine… but man, I just wanted to get as far away from that dude as I could.
The Sportical had Magpul MBUS knockoff sites on it, it had a bi-pod mounted to the bottom (he’d put an aluminum picatinny quad rail) and it had a flashlight mounted on it as well.
How to turn a 7 pound AR into a 12 pound pile of junk
This reminded me of a story (one I wrote about here once in the past, but I’m updating today).
I was at the range a couple of fall seasons ago, and a casual friend of mine was there shooting his AR. The thing was absolutely loaded with “accessories”, it had a combo flashlight/laser, an EOTech holographic sight with magnifier, a Magpul front hand grip, an AR-swing out bi-pod, a pistol grip with storage compartment stuffed full of extra batteries, quick release multi-configuration sling, iron side-mount backup sights, a bi-lateral safety switch, the whole kitchen sink.
The gun weighed about 12 pounds, and he invited me to check it out.
I felt like a Mall Ninja* when I picked it up.
I had the ultimate zombie killing machine (well, I supposed it needed a grenade launcher for that), but what I didn’t have was a weapon in my hand that I would actually carry and use.
The 9-Pound Rule
Salty’s rule of thumb: AR’s should weigh less than 9 pounds unloaded. WELL less than 9 pounds. Eight pounds is better. Less than that? Better still.
Back in the day when I actually used AR’s (we have transitioned over to Tavor X95’s), I kept my guns light and simple. I had the AR, optic (Nikon P-223’s with Nikon mounts), polymer backup sights and that’s it. Unloaded weight 8 pounds 4 ounces with sling.
Our current rigs are Tavor X95’s with EOTech XPS3’s, they weigh in at 7 pounds 15 ounces unloaded.

Spice’s hand doesn’t reach comfortably with the finger extended in the normal “safe ready” position, so she wraps the finger behind the trigger… you can see the trigger in front of her hand, Not quite as fast as the “approved” way but it works for her. Instructors may cringe, but it is SAFE and comfortable.
I get it. I subscribe to several magazines including Shotgun News… oops, scratch that, Firearms News… and I love to see all the fancy must-have toys. When I look at them, however, the first thing I want to know isn’t how cool it us, but rather how much it weighs.
Pick Two
Bicycle Racer/designer Keith Bontrager famously said “strong, light, cheap… pick two…” and while that’s totally true for bicycle components, it’s also true for AR-15 accessories. The simple truth is that if you are going to add quality, lightweight but strong accessories to your weapons platform, it’s going to cost a LOT of money.
What we tend to see at the gun shows are a lot of heavy/strong/cheap (at best) or light/weak/cheap gear. We don’t see nearly as much light/strong/expensive because that doesn’t sell.
I keep coming back to the weight thing, why is it so important? If your are going to do nothing but use your gun at a gun range, shooting off of a rest or your fancy pull-down bipod, it isn’t.
If, however, you are buying the gun as a prep to use in an emergency, it’s critically important for several reasons:
- Every ounce is a burden if you have to walk/hike, and a gun is pure dead weight.
- Each additional ounce on a firearm affects the speed and stability of quickly readying and aiming your weapon
- Every once affects the overall center of gravity of your firearm.
- Most accessories are added in front of an AR’s natural center of gravity, and most tend to make the front of the gun heavier.
- Front heavy guns are harder to hold steady, harder to maneuver with and harder to raise and lower.
It’s OK to be somewhat tacticool if you do it for function, not looks
The main reason we switched to the Tavor bullpup platform isn’t that the gun weighs less than our AR’s did, but rather that the weight distribution of a bullpup is MUCH further back down the axis of the gun, which makes the gun a LOT easier for a 5’4″ woman (Spice) to whip around, aim and shoot accurately, as well as to hold on target.
Even thought our Tavor rigs are almost exactly the same weight as the guns they replaced, they feel lighter because the weight is centered much further back on the long axis of the gun.
They are, coincidentally, very high on the “tacticool scale”, especially when kitted out with EOTech holographics… but for us, the tacticool factor is entirely coincidental.
OK, now… some fun stuff…
*What is a Mall Ninja?
There are several definitions, but in prepper terms it’s somebody who puts an emphasis on piling up really cool looking tactical gear and showing it off to their friends and associates, rather than concentrating on what is really needed for a job.
As the website RationalWiki puts it in their Mall Ninja entry: “A Mall Ninja is a type of weapons and combat enthusiast that is characterized by being so ungrounded in reality as to make even the most hardcore gun nuts shake their heads. Equal parts naïveté, delusion, and obnoxiousness, the mall ninja contributes to countless ill-informed online debates concerning arms, armor, and warfare, and is a common consumer of assorted paramilitary woo, broscience, and shared misconceptions about history and the world.”
The entry continues “The term “Mall Ninja” is pejorative; no one self-identifies as such. More often, they self-identify as weapon “experts,” martial arts aficionados, and otherwise Really Cool Guys. The first widely-known use of the term came from the gun enthusiast forum GlockTalk, where a clown asking for tactical advice claimed to be the sergeant of a special security team in one of the nation’s largest malls, as well as a master of ninjutsu; his claims only got more ridiculous from there.”
Here is a link that contains the backstory of the original Mall Ninja from the early days of the Internet.
http://lonelymachines.org/mall-ninjas/
Sadly, I think most of us who like and enjoy weapons have an “inner Mall Ninja” tacticool lover lurking around inside the recesses of our brains. I know I do.

Does this Tacti-Cool Helmet look good on me?
Inner Mall Ninja avoidance strategy
So… what steps can we take to keep that “inner Mall Ninja” in check? Here are 5 things:
- Concentrate on weight – when putting together your weapon system, concentrate on keeping the weight down. Every single thing that you put on a gun ads weight, so think hard about if you really need it. Spice and I have Tavor X95’s which are very, very Mall Ninja-leaning guns, but all we have on these guns are a holographic optic. No lasers, nothing hanging off the rails, no monopods, bipods, rangefinders, flashlights, nothing Tacti-Cool at all.
- KISS -Keep It Simple, Stupid. Walking the dog around the neighborhood while you are wearing a ballistic tactical vest with 8 30-round magazines, a Glock in the chest holster with 8 spare magazines, an IFAK, kevlar helmet & night vision goggles is a bit much? I think so. How about you just grab your CCW and call it good?
- Eliminate failure points – This is something we learn in technical diving. If it can fail, it will fail, so the more stuff you carry, the more chance you have that something is going to die on you when you “need” it. For example, depend more on non-electronic optics and iron backup sights than fancy lasers. Even with our holographic sights on our Tavors, if there is a failure it only takes about a second to pop up the Tavor’s built-in iron sights, and they work just fine without even removing the EOTechs (they are co – located)
- Blend in, don’t stand out – We buy commercial hunting camo instead of “Tacti-Cool” black or military digital patterns, simply because we want people to ignore us. Mall Ninjas want attention. Anti-Mall Ninjas want to be invisible.
- Don’t show off your stuff – If you buy some gear and the first thing you want to do is show it off to all your friends, you are letting your inner Mall Ninja take charge. We arm ourselves to protect ourselves and our families, not to be the “cool kid” with the best toys. If you want to do that, buy a hot car or something.
This article also contains some information previously published on 3BY, which this article supersedes.
So why no lights? I can’t imagine not having one on a working gun.
What is someone doing when he or she puts a light on a gun and then turns that light on to use it? That person now pointing a loaded gun at a whole lot of things they REALLY don’t want to shoot because their gun muzzle is physically in-line with the light.
Pointing a gun at things you are not ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE you want to destroy is one of the biggest gun-safety no-no’s out there, yet that’s what you have to do if you need to use a gun mounted light. There are other reasons as well, but that one is enough to stop me in my tracks.
The entire reason for the light is last partial second identification. You don’t just run around with it on. I really want to encourage y’all to get trained in low light conditions.
What if it’s an opportunity to harvest an animal for meat at night during the bad situation? The deer looks into the light and freezes and a headshot is made with no tracking needed. Poaching 101. Ever hunted coon or bullfrogs? That ain’t tacticool on my 22 it’s a meal collector. Your misunderstanding and just name calling.
What if the bad guys have night vision and you can momentarily negate that with light and gain the advantage?
“The lights a target” as is your muzzle flash. Once the fight starts they know. I’ve used mine to negate their accuracy and survived by placing good rounds where they guessed due to not being able to focus.
I get the tacticiool article but you are seriously missing a piece of the puzzle on the light.
I’m not going into people’s houses to shoot at them. If there’s shooting in the dark in my world, it’s because someone’s invading *my* space. I know it a lot better than they do, so I’d rather it be dark. A light is a target. Plus, the chances that I want one is very slim, while the chances that it adds weight is 100% 24/7.
You’ve no idea what your going to do when “IT” happens.
I’m not suggesting on any way that you are kicking in the neighbors doors and killing them for supplies.
If a light throws you off because of weight your physical fitness is suspect or you are carrying the wrong weapon system.
How do you know your going to be at home in your safe space when “IT” happens!?!
You could be hundreds of miles away trying to get back.
What happens if you gotta bug to a new unknown location?
Once your trained you will understand the WML.
I set up my systems for my best estimate of need and my own situation — as everyone should for their own, imo. The ‘right answers’ “they” train are not necessarily the best answer for a 120 lb woman past 50 who is Much more likely to have to hike 25 miles in a day carrying her gear than to shoot someone when it’s so dark a light is needed to illuminate the target. My kit has a headlamp. It points where I’m looking already. It will go right over the top of my holographic sight on my Tavor. With it, I can also look at an object without pointing the muzzle of my loaded gun at it — which is important to me.
You like flashlights, and put them on your systems reliably. Great! Maybe it’s a good choice for a lot of people. Here at 3BY though, we believe prepping should be for everyone, and that means adapting to situations. I’m quite fit for a woman of my age, but what if I wasn’t? I’d still need self-protection, and I’d have to make choices to fit where I am. I’m all for people making informed choices that fit them. There’s no training out there that’s one size fits all, beyond the basic safety rules. IMO.
Did you write this whole article just to show off that helmet? 🙂
Obviously. 🙂
I’m thinking someone owes me a bit of chocolate for putting that pic on the internet… (<-- any excuse for chocolate)
Spice,
In a potential combat situation, there is absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t point your weapon where you are looking. In fact, the military and police train exactly that way, whether they have lights mounted or not, day or night. If you have good trigger finger discipline, there shouldn’t be a problem. The reason is you need to be able to shoot immediately at any threat you are looking at, not spending a second or two bringing your weapon to bear. I too like headlamps, but I see a crucial problem in using them in a tactical situation. You can’t easily turn them on and off. Leaving them on is displaying an “insert bullet here” sign for your opponents if they have any competence at all. A light mounted on your rifle should have a switch pad easily reached by one of your hands while properly holding the weapon. Preferably, the light should require you to hold the switch down to create light. Once your finger leaves the switch pad, the light goes off (and you should change positions). I say this from extensive experience, not from reading Soldier of Fortune or some other silly magazine. I spent six-years active duty in the Marines, including a trip to Vietnam, a year in the Marine Reserves as an MP, then 14-years as an Air Guard Security Policeman including a trip to Desert Storm. My law enforcement experience includes time as an active duty Marine MP, a federal police officer, and a municipal police officer in a city next door to Detroit. I was a SWAT team member and later the commander, a firearms and patrol tactics instructor at our regional police academy, and the rangemaster at my department. Most of the combat training I got in the Air Guard was provided by active duty Army Green Berets.I know you want to do what feels comfortable for you, but comfort and good tactics don’t always mix.
Zulu, thank you for that thoughtful explanation of reasons. That ‘off switch’ aspect in particular I hadn’t thought about. The finger switches are actually one of the reasons I *didn’t* like the gun lights I tried — hand size is one of my biggest shooting challenges, as many of the ‘fingertip’ switches make me shift my hands, doing bad things to my aim. But you’ve given me some things to consider, and we’re glad to be able to share your experience with our readers.
Well, I agree about the weight factor on an AR (or any other self-defense rifle). However, personally, I do like a white light mounted on the foregrip, a vertical handgrip, and an EO holographic with a Magpul rear sight co-witnessed. These choices I made from my experiences in the military and police SWAT work.I also like the Magpul fore-end as it is just more comfortable than the military style fore-end. Like Spice, I don’t really plan on crashing the door on someone’s house any more. BTDT enough. But I want a white light available. Just do. I do not double my magazines (I did when I used an MP-5 on the PD). Within my apartment, I do not need any light to get around if my night vision has kicked in. But, I may want it to verify my target’s identity as a couple of family members have keys to my place. The likelihood of them showing up unannounced at night is very low, but I don’t feel like blasting a daughter or her hubby. I’m rather fond of them. My Remington 870 has a fore-end with an integral white light too. Another PD preference.
The bare necessities for a combat rifle would be an optic, because you will NOT shoot faster or more accurate with iron sights, given you know how to shoot in the first place. Back up iron sights, because they weigh almost nothing and batteries can fail. A LIGHT. Yes a light, why? Because you need to be able to identify your target. Show up at certain carbine courses without a light on your weapon and prepare for some verbal ridicule. And lastly a sling. Because sometimes you need 2 hands. If you can’t handle an AR-15 kitted out with these simple items, perhaps you should put down the suzie Q’s or the Budweiser cans and pick up some dumbbells or kettlebells….
For me, another trigger word is “badass.” If something is marketed as “badass,” you don’t need it.